We stayed at the Lightkeeper's House at Cape Anguille. It was a windy day and the surf was so rough!! We've commented repeatedly at how uninviting the beaches are for swimming. Besides that, the water just looks cold. We went in search of whale bones but the sea had reclaimed them.
Fresh, organic, free-range, hormone free! Try moose sausages, burgers, lasagna, pizza, stew, soup and so much more! Moose...it's what's for breakfast, lunch and dinner!
The vistas at the summit made this strenuous 10 mile hike worth our while. We were rewarded with a view around every bend. This was the longest hike of the trip and the kids really did an awesome job.
Yesterday we were lucky enough to catch an added boat tour at Western Brook Pond. This pristine pond (very large lake!!) is the remains of an ancient fjord carved out by glaciers. The cliffs rise up all around and there are hanging valleys caused by tributary glaciers that flowed into the main one.
Today we hiked to Bakers Brook Falls. The view was lovely but those annoying little black flies kept us moving.
...and we mean really off! We went in search of the resettled town of Big Brook way up on the coast of the Northern Peninsula in the Highlands. We first had to find the gravel road to get there which we accomplished by asking directions in Cook's Harbour. We were told that it was 16 km in on an unmaintained road and to take our time. Good advice! The potholes were big and plentiful!!
The whole trip was very cool. We passed through huge limestone barrens in which it appears that nothing grows in the rocky soil, but in fact the barrens host rare species of plants. However stopping here was not our mission despite this unique draw. Looking around, we saw nothing but the barrens and the scrubby vegetation. I'm not sure any of us have ever been in such a remote locale and while thrilling, it was also a bit disconcerting.
After driving through the barrens we found ourselves along a wild, wind-swept coastline. The driftwood was flung up along this desolate, rocky coast. It was just beautiful! We spied the remains of the cargo ship, Empire Energy, which was wrecked by German U-boats in 1942. We tried to walk closer to the beach along a narrow moose path (want to take a guess how we knew it was that??), but found ourselves cut off by a pond next to the beach. It sparked our imaginations though and we took plenty of photos.
Soon after this, we came on Big Brook located at Unfortunate Cove. It was very saddening to see. It really was an abandoned little town. Imagine seeing a wooden swing set with the swings blowing in the wind or the jetty which hosts no ships. As we entered, we stopped to read the official sign which informed us that this community had been evacuated and to enter at our own risk. We went on a bit to take photos and view it closer up but it felt like an invasion of privacy so we didn't go far. A few of the houses still seemed in good condition and we wondered if they were being used as summer homes like we had read in some of the guide books. There wasn't a soul around though. Imagine summering in your old town and watching your neighbor's houses breaking down a bit more each season.
We headed back soon after. This really was a highlight of the trip--getting away from what the average tourist may see and discovering a true piece of Newfoundland history.
Never fear if you've packed all the essentials for a yummy breakfast but have forgotten some important utensil!! Papa Notte has got you covered! And this was just the prototype. The designs improved with each batch.
John scores again with another million dollar view! We stayed right on Gunner's Cove in Quoyle's house (The Shipping News anyone?). This rustic cottage had the view you see above. It was spectacular!
Oh man! Or should we say, Oh Viking!! What a great place! Firstly, the name is the name of the village. The Viking settlement is the UNESCO Heritage site of L'Anse Aux Meadows or something similar. And for the inquiring minds who want to know and who are perhaps slaughtering the pronunciation like we were before we hit Newfoundland, it is said like this: "lance uh meadows.". The population of the town was actually once over 100 but is now only 32 with one school aged child.
The archeological site was found after a lifetime search by a Norwegian researcher who used the Vinland Sagas (The Saga of Eric the Red and The Greenland Sagas--- feel free to check these out at Wikipedia as we are blogging offline and can't link you). The site yielded abundant evidence that the Vikings established a base camp for further exploration at this northern point in Newfoundland about 1000 years ago. We took a guided tour which is really the best way to visit this site. Nicholas apprenticed with the blacksmith and not only helped make a nail but also was given some important life lessons. This was Michele's pre-trip presentation and having the prior knowledge really deepened the experience.
Later in the afternoon we visited the Norstead which was a recreated viking village. It featured a recreated vessel that actually made the journey from Greenland to L'Anse Aux Meadows.
As mentioned previously, we stopped here mid day. We poked around and could have spent much more time here. It is a fishing village with some lovely spots and a fascinating history! Archeological digs have found artifacts from the Dorset Paleoeskimo peoples from 1500 years ago! We also read an informational plaque that had a hand drawn map by Captain James Cook done in 1766. It was incredibly accurate! Most interesting though, was the jockeying for fishing rights by the French and English. This took place from as early as 1713 when France was given exclusive rights to fishing in the area (but not for settlement!) to as late as 1904 when France relinquished these rights. We saw recreations of the bread ovens the French would have used as well as a Basque fishing boat called a Chaloupe (Shallop). Fishing is still very prevalent in this town. Down one of the smaller roads by docks we saw some folks getting fresh fish right off the boat.
The last interesting note is that Port au Choix was the recipient of resettled communities under the Smallwood resettlement programs. It was difficult to provide services for outlying communities so they were apparently offered incentives to move. Photos show houses being floated to their new homes. Joseph Smallwood was the first premier and really pushed for confederation. Do a search on either of these topics. They are really very interesting! So there's the Newfoundland history for the day. Tomorrow we'll be hearing all about Eric the Red and his son Leif Ericson as we head to L'anse aux Meadows.
Today we again hiked in the area of our campground. We've been fortunate to explore this part of the park as our 2nd leg is further north in the park. We would've had a long drive (everything here is a long drive!) down to this area. See? Another bonus of the ferry fiasco although we are missing that Quidi Vidi from St. John's!
This morning we set off on the Green Meadows hike. The first part of it was very alpine-like with the mantle rocks, periodidite, sprinkled throughout. We were just down the road from Tablelands, if you recall was an outing from yesterday. Then it became a stunted forest as we gained altitude---filled with larch trees! Larch trees are one of the few coniferous trees that are not evergreen; they actually lose their needles in the winter. These trees are dear to us as we had three around our pond in NH. They are not all that common in New England so we note the ones we see. But back to the trail. We then moved into a forested area keeping a keen lookout for moose especially in the blow down areas where they are reputed to munch on the new growth to the detriment of the forest. Found droppings but no moose!! The forest then opened up to a meadow area (hence the name!) which overlooked the ocean. It was so scenic!! Around on the point were Adirondack chairs overlooking the beach way down below. It was like something out of promotional literature! The park is so well-maintained and user friendly. Can you even imagine hiking in chairs over 2 miles???!! We saw these yesterday too at the very top of Lookout!! Each hiking trail also has platforms and seating at some of the more scenic views. Very impressive.
We went down to the beach where we saw the above rock formations. Okay, so listen to this...these were formed out of pillow and columnar lava 480 million years ago when there was a hot spot! We have found some surprising connections to our Hawaii trip. This, of course. But also Captain Cook explored parts of Newfoundland and mapped the bays. That and the olivine (which made up the green sand in Hawaii) which are found in some of the rocks. Who would have thought!
After the hike, we headed to one of our original bookings at a hotel in Deer Lake. On our way out of the Trout River area, we saw signs warning when lights are flashing that the roads are closed. Trout River is a small fishing village out on a peninsula on Bonne Bay. There are not any commercial areas. We started imagining what it would be like during the winters when the road closed. Talk about being isolated and needing to be self-sufficient! We were talking to a local ranger last night who said he lives off the land--jams with the local berries and 300 lbs of moose in the freezer. Guess that helps, but wow! Can you imagine? We've heard that snowmobiles are common in winter, but I feel a little spoiled as we can usually get around at home after the plows come through.
Well moving on---we had dinner tonight at Jungle Jim's which is a Newfoundland chain restaurant featuring mostly pub grub. We tried out poutine. It is french fries covered with melted cheese curds and gravy. This has been on the menus we have seen from Montreal to here but our first taste. It was met with "like it not love it."
Off north tomorrow on the Viking Trail...
So here's why our ferry to St John's was rerouted. Guess we can be glad that the timing of our trip helped us to miss that particular adventure! It is certainly the talk of the the towns here.
Yesterday afternoon we hiked up the Lookout trail right behind the Discovery Center where we last checked in with you all. The view above is of Bonne Bay with Gros Morne mountain in the background. Just spectacular! Last night we had clear skies and such a view of the stars! We could even see the Milky Way! We haven't seen that in years not that we can remember even on our Yellowstone trip. With the clear skies came the cold! It was a chilly night and I was glad I had packed my winter hat-- kept the head warm but the toes were still a little cold-nipped!
We are settled at Trout River campgrounds within the park. Really private but the wet June and hot July here has been perfect for the blackfly population. Today we took a guided hike of the Tablelands-- one of about 4 places in the world where the earth's mantle has been exposed! As you can see, not much grows there. It was formed 500 million years ago when the continents collided pushing up a portion of mantle. The geology info given was fantastic although my head was spinning by the end. John absorbed it much better. The boys wanted to hike (scramble over rocks) to the flat summit but rain and lack of preparation turned us back 2/3 of the way. Mt Washington did teach us something!
Lunch in the nearby village of Woody Point. John has been on a fish and chip comparison. Cod has been fish of offer, Caesar salads are made with creamy dressing and bacon, and wings served with sauce on the side. No breaks yet and surprisingly little interest in poutine (fries served with melted cheese curds or gravy) from the kids. Tried the local Quidi Vidi beer but didn't get to see the recognizable blue bottles since it was on tap. At the park Discovery Center now. Grows Morne is spectacular! The fjords coming in with mountains in the backdrop.
Stopped by Corner Brook and we were treated to a scrumptious experience. Cheese fingers are similar to pizza but with no sauce. Instead the thin crust is brushed with garlic butter, covered with mozzarella cheese and topped with bacon. After it is baked it is drizzled with honey. We'll be bringing this NL recipe home!!!
This is what we were left wondering when we learned our ferry had been rerouted! We ended up changing our itinerary so that we will be skipping the eastern side of Newfoundland including St. John's. We were all pretty disappointed that we would not have the overnight experience on the ferry, but the flip side is we arranged for more time at Gros Morne National Park! Guess that means we catch you all when we catch you as we go back to old fashioned living aka unplugged ;-). Oh and a side note...there was a phone booth at the previous campground. Isaac exclaimed, "Wow!! An old fashioned phone! That's cool!" Sigh. Way to feel a slightly bit over the hill, as the saying goes!
We drove a little further up the Bay where it narrows causing more of a tide height variation. Hopewell Rocks are sandstone formations that have been worn away over thousands of years. We explored the Flower Pot area whose many photos can be seen in just about all Fundy promotional literature. And well it should be as they were very cool!
After a long day of driving with interminable waits due to construction right at the end of our journey, we finally made it to Point Wolfe campground which was to be home for the next three nights. The site was a bit smaller than we expected but the facilities and grounds were really well kept-- a huge plus for Miss A whose camping experience can be ruined by a single large spider in the bathrooms (or washrooms as they say in Canada).
On our first full day we kayaked in the Bay with Fresh Air Adventures. We found the staff to be knowledgeable and easy going. We learned about why the Bay is so special and kayaked along some beautiful shoreline. Although we departed at the top of high tide, we still had to take out elsewhere. The tide had already receded so much where we had put in that it was mud flats! Later in the afternoon the kids frolicked in the solar heated saltwater pool. Since it was an overcast day the pool wasn't especially warm but they didn't seem to mind!
On our 2nd day we set off in search of a place to drive the remote controlled boat. We ended up at Bennett Lake, a little further inland in the park. Captain Isaac was the intrepid navigator. While he explored via boat, Adelaide and I took off in a kayak to look for baby ducks at one of the islands. Soon we were joined by Nicholas. No babies but we had a nice paddle.
Once we had our fill of the water, we turned our sights on the land and set out on the Copper Mine Trail. It was an easy loop through peaceful moss covered woods. We saw the remnants of the mine from over 100 years ago--- bits of metal as if from a cookstove and a jumble of quartz-like rocks coming down the hill.
Then our attention turned to the sea. We walked out over the area where had kayaked the day before. Photos just do not give the scope. We all agreed the water had gone out about a half mile. We walked to the water's edge where we found lots of sea scallop shells (or so we think) but to our surprise the most we saw of other sea life were all the barnacles attached to the many rocks covering the Bay floor. Nicholas would have been pleased to stay until the tide turned so he could race it in (although it is hard to say if it would have been that abrupt although there was quite a distance to cover until shore), but we had one more stop...
No signals and big data charges in Canada will truly unplug us! There was something for everyone in Fundy. Will update more soon. Our ferry to Newfoundland was cancelled and we've been rerouted to Port Aux Basque on the Western side. That means a change in plans--definitely an adventure! I will post a couple of Fundy photos and fill you in once we make our Plan B!!
